Horticulture must rank as one of the highest summertime interests, especially in the UK, United States and Canada. Along side horticulture, comes a good collection of garden tools and equipment, particularly for those with experience. Then, for all, the summertime and fall times of year woefully come to an closing, and it is time to get the shed organised and everything locked in for the wintertime. Don’t some of us just detest that task!
Garden tools are one of the most tough collections of house-hold items to find a place for. Little tools such as the garden fork are quite easy to hide away in the shed. Their problem is their size, this makes them prone to be mislaid and be missing by Springtime. But the bigger issue is with stashing away the enlarged equipment, which just happen to be some of the most problematic forms.
Lawn rakes are one of the most troublesome bulky garden tools to find a place for, finding someplace sensible to put it for an extended period of time can be very troublesome. Thrust in the garden fork with its fatal forked spikes, stainless spade, border spade, springbok rake, forged hoe and you have a recipe for cataclysm lying in wait for you. If you have kids, then the risks are even greater.
With all of these ingredients in mind its is nicest to have have your equipment cleaned and then stacked away, in performing this it will make it simple for you to encounter them in the Spring Garden equipment stands, which are particularly planned to put away lawn tools, are fashioned to defeat these problems. They can easily be fitted in any shed or garage, in fact anyplace that you select to stack away the instruments.
In order to make your tools easy to find and to keep them in good order you will need a good equipment stand. The issue is, which type do you choose? There are many possibilities, and most of them are very well designed for the intention specified. While detached holders, if stable and sturdy, might be dandy, it is surely advisable to have a wall stand that is all of the time secured to the shed or garage wall. In doing this it will be less likely to come down on top of you when too many weight is added. If you have tiddlers, a wall rack that can be mounted out of the reach of the youngsters is outstanding, as is picking out one that will carry the hoe and other grave gardening tools steadfastly in place.
For some, their shed offers a place to do some DIY that is not suitable for indoors; for others, their shed provides a peaceful area for them just to sit down and think. Although, these are the most conventional uses and designs, there are numerous other variations of the standard shed that can be purchased and sheds can be made from an assortment of materials and come in a whole assortment of distinct shapes and sizes.What’s more, sheds come in several price ranges and you don’t have to break the bank to find something appropriate to your requirements. Some can be small open-sided with tin-roofs and others can be sizeable wood-framed sheds with shingled roofs.
The most regular materials that are used are of course timber but did you know that you can obtain plastic, metal and even vinyl-sided sheds at cheap prices also? Yet again, it all depends on your finances and what you are going to use it for. The characteristic shed is often a single-story construction with one door and either one or two windows. If you do not happen to have space for a shed in your garden or you have no garden at all, you can rent space in an allotment and have your shed situated there.
If you have a small garden and want a cheap small shed, then there are a few types of small sheds obtainable at very realistic prices; These consist of corner sheds, which fit into a corner 3′ tall x 3′ wide x 2′ deep, vertical sheds (5′ tall x 3′ wide x 4′ deep), horizontal sheds (3′ tall x 5′ wide x 4′ deep) and tool sheds. If you are using your shed for tool storage, then you may need to think about adding some shelves and hooks to boost your storage space. Some other shed styles that you might like to think about include Gambrel-style roofed sheds, comparable to the Dutch-style barn! And these exhibit a high leaning roofline which increases the storage space in the ‘loft’. A further style of small cheap shed is the saltbox-style shed. Whatever type you decide and for whatever purpose, I’m sure you will have lots of happy years of enjoyment with your new garden shed.
Landscape paintings are a beautiful way to spruce up the decor of your home. Although you can buy cheap reproduced paintings, you may want to consider purchasing an original from an artist to reduce the risk of a friend obtaining the same one. You can even buy one from an undiscovered up-and-coming artist to get a beautiful landscape painting at half the cost.
What types of landscape paintings are usually available?
Landscape paintings come in many styles. You can get on that has a view of the rolling hills in a foreign country, you can get one of the sunset at a beach, you could get one of snow topped mountains, or one of your very own yard. This last idea is the most new and exciting in landscape paintings. It is a way to capture the essence and personality of you and your yard forever. It could be passed down to your children and theirs to become a family heirloom.
How much does a good landscape painting usually cost?
The cost of a landscape painting depends strictly on certain factors. For instance, if you want a famous landscape painting, that would logically cost more than one produced by a new artist. Size is also a factor. If you want a small painting to hang in your bathroom it is going to be a great deal less expensive than a painting that will cover most of your living room wall.
What if I’m on a budget?
If you are on a budget you still have the option of purchasing a great reproduced landscape painting. Although it won’t be on canvas, it will still bring just as much beauty and splendor into your home. Even the most famous landscape paintings are reproduced at a relatively cheap cost, so you have your pick of the litter!
If you are having trouble thinking of a new scenery to purchase, you can always go to a website such as www.thelandscapingpro.com to discover new types of landscaping ideas to seek out for your newest landscape paintings.
David Dunlap is the founder and owner of The Landscaping Pro, an online resource guide of every landscaping project. For more information, send an email to david@thelandscapingpro.com
Have you ever thought about building your own outdoor patio furniture? As long as you have the right tools and the right resources you can build almost any type of patio furniture you can think of. If you are a parent you can even kill two birds with one stone by spending a little bonding time with your kid or kids building patio furniture. I would recommend starting off using cedar, pine or redwood as your building materials. It is better to start with these types of woods because they are usually much cheaper so messing up won’t be as bad as it would with more expensive wood like teak. I would highly recommend avoiding trying to build your own furniture from teak because teak is super expensive.
Building resources for Outdoor patio furniture include building plans, diagrams and usually lots of pictures. Building plans can often be located in magazines, books and online. There are books ranging from eight dollars to thirty dollars. There are also videos available that walk you through the process of building a specific piece of furniture step by step. For instance, for fifteen dollars you can buy a video online that shows you how to build a putter shed. You will need to locate tools and lumbers as well. Tools can be purchased in hardware stores most notable Lowes and Home Depot. Lumber can be purchased from a variety of different manufacturers. To find a lumber deal in your area check online or check your phone book.
My Grandmother used to say to me “Nothing cheap is good and nothing good is cheap”. This ring true when dealing with the purchase especially on the internet of Granite Work Surfaces. In fact of all stone so read carefully.
Natural stone is graded as to it’s suitability for a given task. It is also graded regarding the region of the world it originated from. This is a grade for general use but more for stone professionals to advise architects, surveyors etc which products to use for maximum efficiency in the building or home.
When buying on the internet you are usually shown samples of the very best, Granite, Marble, Limestone etc. You must be aware that this stone is probably not what you will receive. Firstly, the stone is batched. You need batched stone to get the consistent pattern throughout the surface. If you were to buy stone today and return for stone a month later to complete your project you will invariably get a mismatch that can look horrendous especially with the larger crystals such as blue pearl granite.
Always make sure you are receiving the same batch and have it itemised on your order. Also if the installer chips a corner or scratches the surface you will generally need a replacement piece. If the batch isn’t available you may have a problem.
I have received numerous calls lately concerning the fading of black granite counter tops. Black granite should not fade. Black granite imported from Asia is sometimes doctored with dyes and oils to darken the surface. The fading is nothing more than the dyes and oils being removed. Unfortunately, the only fix is to re-polish the top. This can be costly.
Before purchasing a granite top perform the following test to find out if it has been doctored.
Get a clean white cloth and apply some acetone (nail varnish remover) to the surface of the granite. If any residue or black color is observed on the top, do not accept it, it has been dyed.
Take a piece of the “granite” you want to test and spill a few drops of lemon juice onto it. If you see that under the drops of lemon it develops very quickly dark spots, it means that it’s a very absorbent stone and I would advise you against it. If it takes, say, a minute or so to be absorbed, then you’re dealing with a level of absorbency that’s easily controllable with the application of a good quality impregnating sealer.
So, in short be careful where you place your order and always seek specialist advice. The void between a good stone and a bad stone is huge, the price between a good stone and a bad stone is smaller than you think but can be costlier.
About The Author
Edward Green owns and operates the highly successful Marble Master Ltd Company. Marble Master specializes in Restoration and Refinishing of all types of natural stone and consultancy services to Architects, Restoration Companies and Interior Designers. http://www.marblemasteruk.com.
Pond supplies are an important aspect for all pond owners. It is important for you to keep your pond clean as well as preserve your pond and add necessary supplies when required. Mentioned below are few pond supplies that are a requisite for every pond owner:
* A stock of filters for the filtration system as well as any chemicals that you use in it.
* A supply of good quality food for the fish.
* Cleansers, skimmers, and other supplies to clean the pond.
* You might have to purchase a pond heater to maintain a standard temperature of the pond.
* An aeration kit to keep it full of the oxygen richness it needs.
Matching Fish And Pond Supplies
It is important to know what type of pond you own so that you can have the right kind fish and supplies for it. Different types of ponds maintain different balances of eco systems and so it is important for you to know the type of pond you own. If the pond supplies don’t match with the eco system of your pond then you are simply killing the aquatic life in your pond and making the water poisonous. Once you know the type of pond you own purchase the best quality pond supplies along with fishing and thus ensure a long life to your pond.
Fish and Pond supplies vary depending on the various type of fish you have within the pond. Suppose you have gold fish in your pond then you have to find a pond supply that will not disturb the gold fish. It is not necessary that a pond supply that does not harm gold fish can be applied in ponds with other fish- specific types of fish genre requires specific types of ponds supplies; so you need to consult an expert before purchasing any pond supplies.
It is also important that you select a pond supply that is in harmony with nature. Don’t go for cheap pond supplies; buy the right type of food for your fish. You also need proper pond liners and filtration system to protect the aquatic life in your pond. The pond kits that you choose should fit with the environment around them. The pond and fish supplies that you require can be purchased online but you have to be very careful with the quality. Buy a product that is always available in the market and that is recommended by experts.
Always remember that pond supplies ensure a healthy well being of all the aquatic life within your pond.
Rory H. Hawkins writes about pond supplies and other interesting topics. For more information on garden pond supplies visit us today.
Perhaps you were browsing the pages of a catalog and found a beautiful picture of the Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus Sriacus)? Or maybe you were lucky enough to see a Rose of Sharon in person at a local garden center? Are you wondering whether these will make a beautiful addition to your home? Getting a little knowledge of these beautiful plants will allow you to make a decision.
Although once somewhat uncommon, the Rose of Sharon has become a widely loved plant. Not your typical rose bush, these are more like shrubs. Other names for Rose of Sharon include althea and shrub althea. Some can grow up to 10 feet tall, while most maintain a height of 5 feet. Sounds like a tree? It looks like a beautiful shrub with blooms of a variety of colors. The Rose of Sharon makes for a great fence as well. Places several side by side in a row, they create a natural fence that will enliven any landscape.
The Rose of Sharon is a hardy plant. Many varieties can withstand sub zero temperatures and can grow in moderate soil to poor soil. The blooms, available in several colors, bloom in mid summer and they continue to do so throughout the fall months. This creates a beautiful color display for many months of the year. They tend to need little care besides the normal water, sun, and decent soil. You may want to add nutrients to the soil yearly as well.
Regardless of the work involved, trimming a few branches will be nothing compared to the beauty the Rose of Sharon will give your landscape. Take the time, and stop to smell the Rose of Sharon and you will be taken away.
Did I hear you correctly? You’re just “starting out” in the rewarding (and often exhausting) hobby of gardening? Think you’d like to grow your own vegetables, instead of limiting your choices to that natural-looking, neatly-arranged assortment of mostly foreign grown produce in the supermarket? Are you concerned that, in all likelihood, most supermarket vegetable offerings may contain substances (additives, pesticides, and other chemicals used in their production) over which you have absolutely no control, and that you’d prefer not to serve to your family?
Then you’re among a growing number of consumers with a yearning to take control over the quality and content of at least some of the food consumed, and have made a firm decision to grow their own. Below are some helpful tips for the health-conscious neophyte veggie gardener. . .tips not cast in stone, but ones that will improve your chances of success and satisfaction.
First, your new garden’s location. Most vegetables grow and mature best in full, uninterrupted sunlight. You’ve probably noticed that the big, profitable market-growers don’t have too many trees in and around their production fields. Eight to ten mid-summer hours is preferable, but that may be a bit difficult for many home-gardeners. Try for an absolute minimum of six full hours of direct sunshine during the brightest part of the day. Save the shady spot in your yard for the hammock. For the beginning vegetable grower, 650 to 1,000 square feet of space is manageable. Be careful not to bite off more than you can comfortably chew! If you find you need more space, you can always expand the following year.
If your new garden space is currently lawn or weeds, here’s a word or two of caution: tilled into the soil, crabgrass, Bermuda grass, dandelions, and many other aggressive weed species will re-grow from the tiniest fragment and quickly return to haunt any gardener. Take the time to remove all weeds — leaf, stem and root — before starting the garden. Most experts correctly recommend that you “peel” off the top two or three inches of turf before you begin preparing the soil to receive valuable seeds or transplants. And you should know that rototilling a patch of lawn is probably the most common and tragic mistake made by overly-enthusiastic novice gardeners.
Soil preparation is next. Don’t begin until the ground is drained well enough that a handful of soil squeezed into a lump breaks apart when dropped from about chin-high. Resist the temptation to disturb soil that’s gooey and sticks together. I’ve always preferred to prepare a new garden soil with a spade. . .and I like to drive that spade completely to the “hilt” and turn my soil upside-down — literally. That’s ten to twelve inches deep. Homeowner-size rototillers rarely have the ability to cultivate any deeper than four to six inches. Not enough!
Having said that, I’ve never been a fan or proponent of “double-digging” to the oft-proclaimed depth of 16 to 24 inches. Realistically, root systems of the overwhelming majority of common vegetables perform admirably in improved soils cultivated to a depth of a foot or so. Exhausting — and frequently discouraging — double-digging is not for me!
Soil that’s been lawn or field weeds, and hasn’t been cultivated for several years, is probably dirt-poor, so to speak. As you turn your new food-growing plot upside-down, mix in organic material such as compost or sterilized cow or horse manure to make it rich, deep and loamy. Three or four inches worked in deeply would be great! Peat moss can be used to break up heavy clay soils but should not be relied upon to add nutrition or beneficial biology to your soil. Peat moss is quite literally nutritionally and biologically dead and adds nothing of any lasting benefit to the soil.
Now’s the time for a soil test. A mailer and complete instructions are available at your local Cooperative Extension Service office. Cost for a test is in the range of about $12. . .good insurance for improving your chances of success right from the start! While at the Extension, ask about their selection of very helpful publications to help you get off on the right foot. Most are free.
Select your seeds, sets, transplants, and roots carefully and, based on your preferences, availability and quality. At nurseries or garden centers, never settle for tall, spindly vegetable transplants that are root bound, or appear to have been neglected in their tiny containers, or ones that have already begun to bloom or have set fruit. Those are “dead-end” — and the furthest thing from a bargain. Make your purchases early enough in the season to ensure strong, stocky plants that have a solid, healthy appearance and color. Reject any transplants that have excessively curled leaves, and those showing signs of nutritional deficiency (bronzing or yellowing of lower leaves, for example). And never accept young veggie plants from displays infested with aphids or small, winged, “gnats” or moths.
Most nurseries and garden centers will carry one or more lines of acceptable quality packaged seeds. Personally, I get my seeds from well-known and reliable local sources when possible, and I always stay away from the bargain racks at markets and those high-volume, high-traffic big-box stores. I like my seed fresh, and I take comfort in the assurance of optimal, carefully controlled storage conditions. Johnny’s Selected Seeds of Winslow, Maine (http://www.johnnyseeds.com) is, in my opinion, a good place to start.
Fertilizer is, of course, an important consideration. I prefer to avoid use of bagged, granular, non-natural mixtures for use in soil intended for producing my food. Yes, you can use the recommended 10-10-10 (a “balanced” commercial plant food), but for me, the jury is still out on the long-term health consequences of non-natural fertilizers and plant food. In my mind, a safer choice would be an organic mixture of naturally-occurring plant nutritional elements available at most large farm-’n-gardens and garden centers. Always follow directions printed on the package and the recommendations included in the results of your soil test. You’ll have a better grasp of just how much fertilizer and lime to apply once you have those results in-hand. Get the recommended fertilizer and any other suggested amendments thoroughly tilled-in a few days before you actually sow your seeds or plunk in your transplants.
There is actually more to achieving real success in the home vegetable patch. But now you have a basis from which to begin. You might like to read an 8-part series on vegetable gardening beginning at http://www.HillGardens.com/veggie-1.htm.
So, as soon as spring arrives, off you go! Enjoy your new garden — and keep a stiff upper lip, a smile on your face and a song in your heart! One final thought: don’t be afraid to ask questions. A successful neighborhood gardener is a tremendous resource. So also is the local library. And your state’s Cooperative Extension Service can put you in touch with a Master Gardener or two for some first-rate and accurate local gardening assistance.
While you’re at it, why not consider becoming a Master Gardener yourself? The Extension offers courses; the price is right; times are convenient; instruction is by top-notch professionals; and then you’ll be the expert — and successful! Hey!…what’s wrong with that?
Fred Davis is a Master Gardener, Master Composter, correspondent, lecturer, owner/operator of a popular 18-year-old perennial nursery in south-central Maine, and author of “Keys To The Garden Gate…Saying Some Things That Need To Be Said.” He and Linda, his wife of 44 years, reside in Palermo, Maine and may be contacted by visiting http://www.HillGardens.com
The flowers have all died and when should you cut the stalk back and how far?
Pruning an orchid stalk (spike) should cause no harm to the plant. However, some orchids will produce new bloom shoots from the nodes on the old blossom stalk, or some plants will produce small baby plants (pups) from these nodes. The new plants may be removed and potted after they develop roots. Of course, some orchids do neither of these things. In either case, it doesn’t hurt the plant if you remove the old bloom stalk; you may just miss some new blossoms or a baby plant.
Once the stalk turns yellow or brown, it is obvious that no blossoms or plants will be produced. You can then cut it to within an inch from where the blossom stalk originated on the plant. You can also cut it there when it is green if you don’t mind losing potential blossoms. Another option is to just remove the end of the blossom stalk to shorten the stalk, but retain enough so that it may bloom again. If you do this, cut it back to about 1/4 inch above a node (indicated by a small leaf-like bract clasping the stalk).
About the Author
Author and webmaster of Orchids-plus-more.com. This site is primarily about orchid plants and also a commercial site.